Tanning Instructions

"2019 BEST IN WORLD WHITETAIL" by Clint Rickey

PRO-1 ADVANCED FORMULA PROFESSIONAL TANNING OIL...
"BRUSH ON TANNING AGENT"

The "BRUSH ON TANNING" process is the most common of easy-to-use tans.
Basic steps: salt, rehydrate / wash, pickle, shave, degrease, re-pickle, neutralize, brush on Tanning Oil.

1. Split & turn: remove meat, fat, and score membrane

• if pickling skins raw: wash and/or rinse in COLD water to remove blood (1 fl. oz. Atesan LPW / 5 gal.)
• if salting 24-48 hours, rehydrate / wash in clean, COLD water until relaxed
  (wet-salted skins need hydrated - simply soak until pliable...use 1 fl. oz. Atesan / 5 gal. as a soap agent)
  Option: a simple "2-hour BRINE SOAK" prior to pickling is effective to introduce salt & remove blood...
  SALT BRINE: 1 volume quart salt (Lowe's quart paint cup level to top full) per 1 gallon COLD water...
  (3 gallon water + 3 quarts salt for avg. deer cape) ...remove after 2 hours, rinse / relax & proceed to pickle...
  if fully salt-dried, rehydrate in the following solution until relaxed...

REHYDRATION FORMULA FOR "SALT-DRIED" SKINS: (16-24 hours for most common skins)
- per gallon COLD water
- 1/2 fl. oz. Atesan LPW (rehydrator)...2 fl. oz. per 5-gallon is good
- submerge mid-afternoon & rehydrate overnight (16-24 hours)
- rinse and/or drain briefly, and proceed to pickle
- see Rehydration Formulas / Tips on page "REHYDRATING / DEODORIZING / PICKLING / DEGREASING"
- for ODOROUS SKINS see "Deodorizing Instructions / Formula" wash after rehydrating

2. Pickle the skin: skin-side out / down in all tanning solutions

• per gallon clean cool water (4-5 gallon per avg. whitetail cape)
• 1 lb. of salt / gallon (salinometer 40-43%)
• ½ fl. oz LiquaSafe Acid / gallon (pH mid-1 range...lower than 2.0)
  (Note: if using Citric Acid - 3 oz. by weight per gallon pickle...pH 1.8-2.0)
• optional: ½ fl. oz. Degreaser / gallon (greasy skins: 1 fl. oz / gallon)
  - agitate frequently first 2 hours, then periodically for 3 days
  - keep submerged overnight (important first night)
  - pH mid-1 range (lower than 2.0)
  - check pH 2x/day...stir before checking (pH papers PH12)
  - agitate 1x per day if storing / holding for extended time
  - (storing skins in pickle: keep lid on to keep water from evaporating)
  - pickle deer capes 3 days before shaving / 2 days fine furs / 4-5 days for thicker hides
  - too much salt in pickle shuts down fibers = won't pickle completely = rawness in finished skins
  
  Note: using a "single rope tote for a single cape solution" allows better free float for capes...
  it's more about "surface area" than depth of water - you can spread the shoulders out in a
  circle on a tube incision cape like a "floating umbrella" with all skin components free-floating
  in loose folds underneath in contact w/ solution - this ensures better chemical absorption...
  deer capes float & create cramped "skin-to-skin compression" in a trash can w/ multiple capes...
  imagine a trash can that was 8 ft. tall & held 100 gal. water - all the capes would still be floating
  in the top 10 gallon...think about surface area & free float vs. depth.
  Rubber water troughs permit capes to float "beside each other" and "not on top each other"
  when pickling multiple capes...rope totes work best for single capes.
  Tip: for floating capes such as whitetails, putting a 2nd tote w/ a couple gallons of water
  in it "down inside the first tote w/ the pickle & cape" is a good way to keep evenly submerged
  without compressing during overnights...they fit like solo cups (see photo below)
  

3. Shave:

• GREASY and/or ODOROUS skins perform a PRIMARY DEGREASING after shaving
  - greasy skins: bear, boar, raccoon, beaver, otter, bobcat, coyotes, etc.
  - odorous skins: goats, sheep, elk, antelope, mink, skunk, etc.
  
  DEGREASING BATH FORMULA FOR GREASY AND/OR ODOROUS SKINS:
  Note: using Degreaser in the pickle is recommended, but it is only supplemental ...
  you must do a WARM WATER DEGREASING...
  - per gallon WARM water (80-85 deg F)
  - 1/4 lb. salt / gallon (2 cups per 5 gallon)
  - 1 fl. oz. Degreaser / gallon (1/2 cup per 5 gal. is good)
  - 1 tablespoon baking soda / gallon (helps to relax acidic skin for better penetration)
  - ODOROUS skins: add 1 fl. oz. Deodorizer / gallon (1/2 cup per 5 gal. is good)
  - add skin & soak / agitate periodically for 1 to 4 hours (thin skins / fine furs: 30 minutes) …
  - drain only after degreasing & return to pickle
  - using a "cooler w/ a lid" will help maintain water temperature
  Note: extremely greasy skins can be degreased up to 4 hours...
  and more than once on consecutive days...
  simply return to pickle overnight (do not degrease twice on same day)

4. Re-pickle: return to original pickle minimum overnight (longer is better)

5. Neutralize for "BRUSH ON TANNING":

• drain well from pickle (neutralize skin-side out / down)
• per 5 gallons of clean cool water
• 2 cups of salt (1/4 lb. / gallon)
• 1/2 cup of baking soda (appx. 1 oz. by weight / gallon) - MIX WELL before adding skin
• add skin & agitate frequently for 30-45 minutes (whitetails / medium skins)
  (thin skins / fine furs 15 minutes...heavier hides 45 minutes to 1 hour)

  OPTION 2: EXACT PH NEUTRALIZATION - "Less Shocking"...PH FINISH OF 4.0-4.5
  (Summary: 1 tablespoon baking soda at a time...15-minute soaks...FINAL pH 4.0-4.5)
  Average Deer-Size Cape:
  - per 5 gallon cool water
  - 2 cups salt (1/4 lb. per gallon) ...MIX WELL
  - add drained pickled skin...agitate well / soak for 5-10 minutes
  - then add 1 tablespoon baking soda
  (dip out some solution and pre-mix first, then add...MIX WELL)

• soak 15 minutes...repeat this until solution pH is 4.0-4.5 after a 15-minute soak
  - once target pH of 4.0-4.5, soak additional 15 minutes
  - rinse, spin-out excess water and oil
  Bobcat / Coyote-Size Skin:
  - 2 1/2 gallon water
  - 1 cup salt (1/4 lb. per gallon)
  - 1 TEASPOON measure baking soda at a time

6. Rinse in clean water & spin out (or drain & towel-wick well):

• rinsing from neutralization shuts down the basification process
  (rids hair of high pH baking soda which could cause looseness)
• skins need to be damp / thirsty / not wet to absorb oil
  (too much water in fiber = oil just floats on top & doesn't soak in well)
  
  Note: using an old washing machine on spin-cycle is the best way to extract water
  (DO NOT use a washing machine to wash and/or rinse a skin)
  2 full cycles is good - once hair-side out & once skin-side out
  (you can simply put the drain hose into a 5-gal. bucket...or plumb)

7. Apply BRUSH ON TANNING OIL (warmed) to skin surface:

• approximately 100 deg F oil temperature - DO NOT BOIL
  (8 fl. oz. for avg. deer cape - heat appx. 20 seconds in microwave)
• also apply oil to the front / inner hair-side of ears w/ cartilage
  (oil does not penetrate cartilage well)
  
  
  Note: pics illustrate optimal way to "oil a tube incision cape" for sweating...
  use this same technique when salting as well.

8. Fold & sweat:

• leave hair-side out at room temperature overnight for optimal absorption & stretch
• do not bag to sweat & do not refrigerate
  (cold temperatures restricts skin fiber & gels the oil = restricts absorption)

9. Ready to mount or bag & freeze: (do not wash / rinse prior to freezing)

• to mount, rinse well in lukewarm water & spin-out (or towel-wick)
• you can wash & rinse for optimal fluff (keep wash cycle brief)
  Wash: 5 gal. lukewarm water + 2 cups salt + 1 fl. oz. Atesan LPW (rinse in cool water / spin-out)
  
  FOR DECORATIVE SKINS TO BE FINISHED AS SOFT-TANS:
  (optional to use PRO-1 HEAVY DUTY BRUSH ON)
  - sweat oil in overnight
  - next morning hang skin-exposed to dry
  - (for heavy hides apply a 2nd coat of oil before hanging to dry)
  - stretch during drying and break at 85-90% dry until soft
  Note: see dry-tan finishing instructions on SUBMERSIBLE - TANNERY QUALITY SYSTEM page...
  these instructions work for any finishing of an oiled skin, regardless of tanning system used.
  (includes instructions for how to clean fur / hair when you don't have a tumbler)
  

Mount by Gene Smith - front cover of Breakthrough Magazine using the
COMPETITION WHITETAIL FORMULA version of PRO-1 BRUSH ON TAN.

This PRO-1 custom application utilizes our LEATHER TANNING CONCENTRATE
in the pickle with the BRUSH ON TANNING SYSTEM (only).
LEATHER TANNING CONCENTRATE can be added to any pickle when using BRUSH ON TANS.

Adding LEATHER TANNING CONCENTRATE to the pickle when using BRUSH ON TANS
offers several benefits which include:
(Note: do not use LTC in the pickle if doing a submersible tan afterwards)

• Whiter Skin / Less Yellowing
• Less Shrinkage
• Lighter, More Natural Skin Tones
• Softer Finish Requiring Less Paint
  

Salt & Drain:

• split & turn / rough flesh (remove red meat, fat & score membrane)
• salt heavily / rub in well (leave in salt overnight / 24-48 hours)
• knock off salt & relax completely in COLD water
  (Note: add 1 fl. oz. Atesan LPW per 5-gallon as a soap / wash agent)
• rinse, drain briefly and proceed to pickle

Pickle utilizing "Leather Tanning Concentrate": for average deer cape

• 5 gallons of clean cool water
• 5 lb. of salt (salinometer 40-43%)
• 3 fl. oz. of LiquaSafe Acid
  (pH not to exceed mid-1-range...monitor & add acid as needed)
• 2 fl. oz of Degreaser
• pickle for 3 days minimum and shave (shave neck thin for optimal stretch)
• re-pickle minimum 24 hours (longer is better...2 days)
• then add 4 fl. oz. (1/2 cup) of LTC to the pickle (after re-pickling) & process 1 more day
• do not worry about pH after adding LTC (it will come up slightly)

Neutralize in the Pickle: FIXATES LTC TANNING AGENT TO THE SKIN
(or in a standard separate neutralization bath – see BRUSH ON TAN instructions)

• remove skin from pickle (hold in separate pail)
• add new 5 gallon cool water to existing 5 gallon pickle (mix well)
  (Note: this de-salts the pickle to "1/2 lb. salt per gallon concentration")
• add / mix enough baking soda to raise pH of pickle to 5.0- 5.5
  (tablespoon at a time...solution will foam...mix well)
• re-add skin & agitate periodically for 1 full hour
• remove skin, rinse well & spin-out (needs to be damp, thirsty for oiling)
• apply warmed BRUSH ON TANNING OIL
  (fold hair-side out & sweat @ room temp. overnight...ready to mount or bag & refrigerate or freeze)
  Note: DO NOT reuse pickle

Pre-Mount Wash: (wash briefly in the following solution)

• 5 gallons lukewarm water + 2 cups salt + 1 fl. oz. Atesan LPW
• rinse in cool water & spin-out

Mount by Nathan Wilson of "Wilson's Wildlife Artistry" of Crossville, TN.
Nathan uses our PRO-MAXX TANNING SYSTEM for all in shop tanning.
Wilson's Wildlife Artistry is one of the largest studios in Tennessee.

PRO-MAXX is a short-cut system for those that want complete schedules and simplicity.
It is most similar to our BRUSH ON TANNING System.

Instructions for Average Deer-Sized Cape:
(DO NOT RE-USE SOLUTION)
The base formula is good for average deer, black bear, boar, or mule deer size cape.
NOTE: use 1 1/2 times the amounts for x-large capes, pedestal capes, etc.…
see instructions below for "Miscellaneous, Large or Life-Size Skins".

1. split & turn - remove red meat and fat

2. wash skin in COLD water (1/2 fl oz Atesan LPW per gallon for soap) ...
- rinse / drain briefly & proceed to tan solution...OR...
Option: a simple "2 hour BRINE-SOAK" will produce whiter skins
SALT BRINE: 1 volume quart salt per 1 gallon COLD water
(3 gallon for avg. deer cape...rinse well / relax in COLD water & proceed to tan)
Note: the BRINE SOAK is simply a short-cut for salting to remove blood & fluids...OR...
you can salt overnight, and rehydrate in cold water the next morning...
if skins are "salt-dried", rehydrate overnight, then proceed to tan (see Rehydration Instructions)

"Odorous and/or Blood-Soaked Skins" - salt heavily overnight...
(elk, goats, sheep, bear, coyote, mink, antelope, etc.)
next morning knock salt off & wash in following bath until completely relaxed:

• 2 fl. oz. Atesan LPW (or Degreaser) + 1 cup salt per 5 gallon WARM water (80 deg F)
  (plus 1/2 cup Deodorizer for odorous skins)
• rinse in COLD water / drain briefly...proceed to tanning solution

3. PRO-MAXX TAN SOLUTION FORMULA: 

• 5 gallon clean, cool water
• 5 lb. salt (mix well) ...56 volume / fl. oz.
  (Lowe's paint cup quart: 32 fl. oz. + 24 fl. oz.)
• 8 fl. oz. PRO-MAXX TAN (mix well)
  (recommended for greasy skins: 1/2 cup Degreaser)

4. add skin to tan solution (skin-side out / down…hair-side in / up)
NOTE: use 2 rope tote system for free-float / submersion without compression...
(for floating whitetails...fur bearers sink & do not float)
add couple gallons water in second tote for equal weight distribution overnight

• agitate well for 5 minutes, then every 30 minutes first 2 hours...
  then periodically for 3 days minimum
• keep submerged overnight
  (float cape inside-out w/ shoulders spread out in a circle, hair-up like a "floating umbrella")
  skins can be left in the tan...agitate 1-2 times / week
  (put lid on if stored for extended time, so water doesn’t evaporate)

5. shave skin (degrease GREASY and/or ODOROUS skins after shaving)
- see DEGREASING FORMULA below

6. return skin to tan solution overnight minimum

7. NEUTRALIZING MIX:

• in a separate pail, mix 1 cup baking soda into 5 gallons cool water
• remove skin from PRO-MAXX Tan Solution (hold in separate pail)
• add the 5-gallon "NEUTRALIZING MIX" into the EXISTING tanning solution (MIX WELL)
  Note: add half the neutralizing mix and mix well, then add rest (it will foam hard)
• re-add skin & agitate periodically for 1 hour
  
  Neutralizing Option #2: neutralize in a "separate" solution (just like for BRUSH ON TANNING) ...
  this is used when you want to tan "multiple" capes together in a larger PRO-MAXX Tan Solution
  Example: you can use a 20-gal. tan for 4 capes, and not end up with a 40-gallon neutralizing mix...
  neutralize them one at a time while leaving remaining capes in the PRO-MAXX Tan Solution
• drain skin from PRO-MAXX Tan Solution
• per 5 gallons of water
• 2 cups of salt
• 1/2 cup of baking soda - MIX WELL before adding skin
• add skin & agitate periodically for 30-45 minutes
  (thin skins / fine furs: 2 gal. water + 1 lb. salt + 4 tbsp. baking soda...agitate 15 min.)

8. remove skin & rinse in cool water...spin-out / drain to thirsty (damp, but not wet)

9. apply warmed PRO-MAXX OIL (appx. 8 fl. oz. for avg. deer cape)
Note: how to oil a tube incision cape (use same method for salting)

• apply oil to front / inner hair-side of ears w/ cartilage
  (oil does not penetrate cartilage well)
• fold skin-to-skin / hair-out & sweat overnight at room temp.
  (ready to mount or bag & freeze...do not wash / rinse before freezing)

10. Wash Formula for Optimal Cleanliness:
- 5 gallon lukewarm water
- 2 cups salt
- 1 fl. oz. Atesan LPW or Degreaser

CAUTION: hard well water can alter solution pH...check pH end of Day 1, 2, 3...
make sure pH is lower than 2.0 (add 1 fl. oz. PRO-MAXX TAN to lower)
NOTE: we do recommend checking pH first couple times you use the PRO-MAXX system
just to validate there are no variables in your water system, etc. that could raise the pH...
it is rare that the pH needs lowered, but skin weight variables make it better to be than
sorry (we recommend at least one pH check end of Day 2)

The base formula is good for an average deer, black bear, boar, or mule deer size cape...
use 1 1/2 times amounts for x-large pedestal cape, x-large boar, etc. or appx. 12 lb. green skin...
see instructions below for miscellaneous and/or large, life-size skins.
(if in doubt about skin-size & what formula to use, use the Miscellaneous Skin Formula)

Mounts by Abel Everage using PRO-MAXX TANNING SYSTEM...

Bobcats and Average Coyote Size Skins:
(bobcat, average coyote, raccoon, fox, beaver, otter, etc....for large coyote use deer tan formula)
Note: for fur bearers, you can shorten the time in tan to 2 days before shaving and degreasing...
always return to tan after shaving and degreasing for at least overnight

• 2 1/2 gallons water
• 28 volume oz. salt (or 2 ½ lb.)
• 4 fl. oz. PRO-MAXX TAN
  (recommended: 2 fl. oz. Degreaser)
• Neutralizing Mix "in the tan": add 2 1/2 gallons water and 1/2 cup baking soda
  (neutralize 30 minutes...15 minutes for fox)

Small Mammal Size Skins:
(squirrel, mink, weasel, etc.)

• 1 gallon water
• 12 volume oz. salt (or 1 lb.)
• 2 fl. oz. PRO-MAXX TAN
  (recommended: 1 fl. oz. Degreaser)
• Neutralizing Mix "in the tan": add 1 gallon water + 3 tablespoons baking soda
  (neutralize 15 minutes)

Miscellaneous / Large or Life-Size Skins:
USE THIS FORMULA W/ ANY SKIN FOR EXACT CALCULATION
(weigh raw skin after removing red meat and fat)

• 1/2 gallon water per lb. raw fleshed skin
• 1 lb. salt per gallon water
• 2 fl. oz. PRO-MAXX TAN per gallon water
  (recommended: 1 fl. oz. Degreaser per gallon...or 1/2 cup per 5 gallon is good)
• Neutralizing Mix (add to tan):
  1 cup baking soda per 5 gallon water (match water volume of tan solution)
  (neutralize 1 hour)

For example (20 lb. skin):
- 10 gallons water
- 10 lb. salt
- 20 fl. oz. PRO-MAXX TAN
- 10 fl. oz. Degreaser (1 cup is good)
- Neutralizing Mix: add 10 gallons of water + 2 cups of baking soda

Degrease Greasy Skins after shaving:
- bear, raccoon, beaver, boar, coyote, bobcat, fox, otter, mink, etc.
Degrease Odorous Skins after shaving:
- goats, sheep, antelope, elk, skunk, etc.

Degreasing Bath Formula for Greasy and/or Odorous Skins:
(use same water volume as tan solution)

• per gallon WARM water (80-85 deg F)
• 3/4 cup salt (1/2 lb.)
• 1 fl oz Degreaser
• Odorous skins: 1 fl oz Deodorizer
  - agitate periodically 1 hour (thin skins / fine furs: 30 min.)
  - remove, drain only, and re-add to tanning solution

FOR DECORATIVE SKINS TO BE FINISHED AS SOFT-TANS: (not to be mounted)
Note: tan deer flats and/or larger skins using the "Miscellaneous Skin Formula"
- sweat PRO-MAXX Oil in overnight
- (thick skins: elk, bear, etc. - apply 2nd coat next morning before hanging to dry)
- hang skin-exposed to dry...stretch during drying and break at 85-90% dry until soft
  (see dry-tan finishing for any oiled skin on SUBMERSIBLE - TANNERY QUALITY SYSTEM page)

INSTRUCTIONS FOR AUTO TANNERS: Tanners that run 1-2 rpm are ideal
(we recommend the "brine soak" for 2 hours first, rinse and proceed)
For the average deer cape:
- do gentle on/off cycles first 2 hours (run 5 minutes, off 15 minutes, etc.)
- run tanner all day...leave skin soaking overnight shoulders up / skin-down (tanner off)
- Note: if tanning longer, run the machine 5 minutes 2-3 times a day
- shave, then return to tanner and run another 1-2 hours
- "neutralizing mix" - add to tanner and run 15 minutes
- rinse, spin-out and apply warmed PRO-MAXX Oil (sweat overnight)
- TANNERS w/ TIMERS: run 5 minutes every hour morning to morning
(NOTE: do not use mechanical action tanning for fur bearers or mule deer)

Mount by Wes Mote...Wes uses the PRO-MAXX or
BRUSH ON TANNING SYSTEMS for all his whitetails...
"and of course PRO-1 HIDE PASTE!" Wes Mote
2021 Nationals / Division of Excellence
. North American Champion - OM Whitetail / BOC
. Bruchac Award
. Breakthrough Best of Show
. Virtuoso Award for Excellence in Molding & Casting
. People's Choice Best Whitetail

Mount by Jena Everage...Jena exclusively uses the
PRO-MAXX TANNING SYSTEM & PRO-1 HIDE PASTE

 

If you want the highest quality of tan, the Submersible Tan is the one you're looking for...
this schedule produces a tannery quality tan...you just have to do a little math, but it's not difficult.
Skins are pickled first, then drained & weighed. From there they go into a separate "tanning solution".
(Note: for any deer-sized cape, see short-cut version...super easy, no weighing!)

How Tanneries Do It...
"SKIN WEIGHT FORMULA": % are based on weight of drained, shaved, pickled skin...
Example: 6 lb. cape x 16 = 96 oz. (turn lb. into oz. by multiplying by 16 when tanning 1-2 skins)
- 4.5% LEATHER TANNING CONCENTRATE (as tan option): 96 oz. x .045 = 4.3 oz. LTC by weight
- Fixation - 1% Baking Soda Total: 96 oz. x .01 = 0.96 oz. or 1 oz. Total Baking Soda by weight
(See "WATER VOLUME" version below)

• drain skins out of pickle & weigh (drain 1 hour...do not rinse...drain only)
  (turn weight into oz. by multiplying by 16...example above: 6 lb. x 16 = 96 oz.)
• 1/2 gallon of water per lb. skin (6 lb. cape = 3 gal. water)
• add 1/2 lb. salt per gallon water (3 gal. water = 1 1/2 lb. salt)
• add drained pickled skins, agitate / soak 10 minutes
• add Tan(s) - see options below, agitate well (process per schedules listed below)
• after tanning cycle, to finish / fixate tan (start in morning) ...
• fixate tan: 1.5% Baking Soda TOTAL (6 lb. cape = 96 oz. x .015 = 1.44 or 1.5 oz. rounded up)
  - add 1/3 baking soda to tan (mix well) ...agitate periodically
  - (Note: 1 tablespoon baking soda weighs 1/2 oz....1 tablespoon per 1/3 feed for 6 lb. cape)
  - soak 1 hour between each application / "feed" of baking soda
  - check pH of solution after each hour
  - continue feeds of baking soda until pH 4.0-4.5 stable end of hour
• after stable pH 4.0-4.5, leave until end of day (3 hours minimum)
• remove skin & drain overnight / "horse-up" (see photo at bottom of page)
  Note: drain capes hair-side out (you want them to drain but not dry out)
• next morning, apply warmed Leather Finishing Oil
  - fold skin-to-skin and sweat at room temperature
  
  
  SWEATING OIL for SUBMERSIBLE TANS:
  - furs (overnight to 1 day)
  - whitetails / medium skins (1 day minimum / 2 days optimal)
  - heavier / thick hides - bear, cattle, elk, moose (2 days minimum / 3 days optimal)

Fixation - the total amount of baking soda used may exceed 1.5% of skin weight (or be less: appx. 1%)...
it depends on skin thickness, etc. as to how much acid from the pickle is in the skin...
simply repeat feed until pH 4.0-4.5 stable end of hour
When using 1.5% baking soda total, each 1/3 feed will be: .005 on calculator x skin weight in oz.
Tip: 1 tablespoon each feed per 6 lb. skin (2 teaspoons @ 1% baking soda total, etc.)
Heavier skins may require 2% (the goal is 3 feeds minimum, but not require 6-7 feeds) ...
2% baking soda total, each 1/3 feed would then be: .0066 on calculator x skin weight in oz. ...
1% baking soda total, each 1/3 feed would then be: .0033 on calulator x skin weight in oz.

Tan Options: (for skins to be mounted - see below for "Decorative Skins")
1. 4.5% LEATHER TANNING CONCENTRATE (liquid synthetic tan) Tip: 2 fl. oz. per every 3 lb. skin
2. 6% RB Tan FN or 1 oz. / lb. skin (pre-mix in warm water as this is a powdered mineral tan)
3. 6% RB TAN FN + 1% LEATHER TANNING CONCENTRATE (add LTC 1 hour after RB TAN FN) ...
-  this option is used by most of our tannery customers

RB TAN FN: 5 lb bag tans 10-12 average deer capes
LEATHER TANNING CONCENTRATE: 1 gallon tans 20+ average deer capes (as Option 1 sole tanning agent)

Decorative Skins / Flats, Wall Hangers, etc. (not to be mounted):
use more Leather Tanning Concentrate for added softness
- 15-20% (3-4 times amount used for mounting) ...
- the LTC is fiber filling - it's like putting air into an air mattress...
- the more you use the "fuller / more plush / softer the decorative skin will be"
- Tip: 3 fl. oz. per every 1 lb. skin
- Note: use only 4.5% LTC for skins to be mounted (they will lose stretch if you use too much)

Process Time (time in tan solution):
Skins can be tanned in 24 hours...longer is better & provides flexibility of schedule...
the theory that skins will become over-tanned if left in solution too long is not accurate,
provided the amount of tan is based on skin weight.

• Light Skins / Fine Furs: 1 day (bobcat, coyote, etc.)
• Medium Skins: 2 days (deer)
• Heavy Skins: 3 days (bear, elk, moose)

Fat Liquoring (vs. Swabbing Oil):
oil is applied "in the tan solution" vs. swabbed on (best results when used w/ mechanical action drum) ...
for wet tan "fat liquoring" - add 6-8% TANLIQUOR at mid-cycle, agitate well...
(pre-mix first with warm tap water...3 parts water: 1 part oil by volume..."mix water slowly into oil") ...
Option: simply swab the TANLIQUOR on after the overnight drain for wet tans (vs. using as a fat liquor)
Note: LEATHER FINISHING OIL should be used for dry tans & is good for both wet or dry tan finishing.
TANLIQUOR is a non-greasy fat liquor...it can be used as a "fat liquor" or as a "swab on" for wet tans...
TANLIQUOR is not to be used as a dry tan finishing oil...
Note: it is not recommended to fat liquor fine furs unless they are to be tumbled to clean
Note: when swabbing oil, it is applied after the overnight drain while the skin is still damp but thirsty
Optional: can use fat liquor in tannage at 2% as a pre-fat for added softness when swabbing oils.

“WATER VOLUME from SKIN WEIGHT" Submersible Tan Formula:
Note: this is an easier version of the "TANNERY SKIN WEIGHT FORMULA" detailed above
Weigh drained pickled skin (drain 1-2 hours) …
this is the foundation number the water volume is based on…get the weight and the rest is easy!
Tan Solution:
- 1/2 gallon water per lb skin (1 gallon per 2 lb skin)
- 1/2 lb salt per gallon water (mix well)
- add skin(s), wet out 10 minutes
- add tan (see options below)
- tan 1 day minimum (agitate periodically...submerge floating skins overnight / furs sink)
- fixate tan (1 teaspoon baking soda per gallon solution / 1 hour soak / do 3 times)
- leave soaking in tan until end of day
- drain overnight (skin-to-skin / hair-side out)
- oil next morning (swab on warmed finishing oil…sweat at room temperature for 24-48 hours)
Tan Options:
1. LEATHER TANNING CONCENTRATE (liquid synthetic tanning agent)
    - 1.5 fluid ounces per gallon
2. RB TAN FN (powdered mineral tanning agent)
    - 2 ounces by weight per gallon
3. Combination of RB TAN FN and LEATHER TANNING CONCENTRATE
     - 2 ounces by weight RB TAN FN per gallon
     - 1 tablespoon LTC per gallon

DRY TANS: LEATHER FINISHING OIL APPLIED BY SWABBING

• swab warmed LEATHER FINISHING OIL after overnight drain / "horse-up"
• fold skin-to-skin & sweat overnight @ room temperature
  (minimum of 18 hours for oil to penetrate the leather fiber...2 full days is optimal)
  Heavier skins: apply a 2nd coat of oil prior to hanging to dry
• hang / dry to 90% and tumble soft (stretch during drying for easier breaking)

Breaking Skins: simple jig as shown above is a good way to "manually break" light to
medium skins...work the skin-side back & forth over the steel edge until the skin softens.
(photo as illus.: COMPLETE HOME TAXIDERMY by Tim Kelly, 2nd edition)

Tanneries use large tumblers (6' minimum) w/ a significant weight of grit...
and run several hours to break skins soft...
you can use a small tumbler for "cleaning the hair / fur only"
(small tumblers will not break skins soft enough)

"SHORT-CUT VERSION FOR ANY DEER-SIZED CAPE" Submersible Tan Formula:
(NO WEIGHING REQUIRED...using LEATHER TANNING CONCENTRATE)
- 3 gallon water
- add 2 volume cups salt (mix well)
- add drained pickled cape - agitate / soak for 10 minutes
- add 4 fl. oz. LEATHER TANNING CONCENTRATE for avg. deer cape...agitate well
- (LTC for pedestals or X-large cape: 6 fl. oz....2 fl. oz. per 3 lb. skin to be exact)
- tan 1 day minimum (agitate periodically...submerge overnight)
TO FINISH TAN:
- remove cape & add 1 tablespoon measures Baking Soda (mix well)
- (for small capes: 18x20 and less - use 2 teaspoons)
- re-add cape & soak for 1 hour (do this 2 more times...3 times total)
- then leave cape soaking 3 hours
- remove cape, rinse briefly hair-side out in lukewarm water, spin-out
- apply warmed finishing oil (sweat overnight...ready to mount)

Note: for any pickle or tanning solution using a "rope tote for a single cape solution"
allows better free float...it's more about "surface area" than depth of water...
you can spread the shoulders out in a circle on a tube incision cape like a "floating umbrella"
w/ all skin components free-floating in loose folds underneath in contact w/ solution...
this ensures better chemical absorption...deer capes float & create cramped compression
in a trash can w/ multiple capes - skin sucks to skin and slows down absorption ...
imagine a trash can that was 8 ft. tall & held 100 gal. water - all the capes would still
be floating in the top 10 gallons...think about surface area & free float in solutions.
Rubber water troughs permit multiple capes to float "beside each other" and
"not on top each other"...rope totes work best for single capes.

Cape "horsed-up" (overnight drain) ...multiple capes horsed-up.
Turn capes "hair-side out" as pictured - so they don't dry out while draining.
Flat skins drain hair-side up, or fold skin-to-skin to drain.
The end result is a thirsty, but damp skin ready for oiling the next morning.

Wet Drum Tanning Schedule for Wet Tans:
- drain skins out of pickle & weigh
- 1/2 gallon water / lb. skin
- add 1/2 lb. salt / gallon
- add skins, run 5 minutes
- add Tan(s), run 4 hours minimum for Syntans
- run all day & rest overnight for Mineral Tans
- for wet tan fat liquoring: add 6-8% TANLIQUOR – run 1 hour at end of cycle
- Fixate (run 15 minutes per baking soda feed)
- final pH 4.0-4.5 (NOT TO EXCEED 4.5)
- leave 3 hours minimum or to end of day (machine at rest)
- horse-Up / drain overnight
- oil next morning w/ warmed LEATHER FINISHING OIL (if swabbing versus fat liquoring)

FINSHING SKINS AS DRY-TANS:
- apply warmed coat LEATHER FINISHING OIL to drained tanned skin
- fold skin-to-skin and sweat minimum overnight at room temperature (2 days is optimal)
- hang skin-exposed to dry
- Note: thicker hides: apply a 2nd coat of oil before hanging to dry
- stretch during drying (makes skin break easier)
- break at 85-90% dry as skin stiffens (over a blunt edge, etc.)
- tumble to clean hair

Note: if you don’t have a tumbler…
- dry partially until skin starts to stiffen, then give a brief wash / rinse…
  spin-out and re-hang to finish drying (stretch and break per above instructions)
Wash Formula:
- per 5 gallon lukewarm water
- 2 cups salt
- 1 fl. oz. Atesan LPW (or Degreaser)
- wash briefly…rinse in cool water

(TO DISCARD TANNING SOLUTIONS: ADD BAKING SODA UNTIL PH 7.0)

 

Below are formulas for Rehydrating, Deodorizing, Pickling, Degreasing.
The basic steps in tanning are as follows:
1. Salt-Cure (first step in removable of non-tannables / globular proteins...see "Effects of Salting" page)
2. Rehydrate (opens dehydrated fiber for chemical process in solution...flushes globular proteins)
3. Clean / Deodorize (blood-soaked and/or odorous skins...after rehydrating / before pickling)
4. Pickle (converts rawness / acidifies - adjusts skins pH to accept tans)
5. Shave (thins to improve stretch & reduce shrinkage)
6. Degrease (removal of interfibrillar natural oils & odorous molecule residual from hair)
7. Re-pickle (ensures all rawness converted after hide reduction from shaving)
8. Tan (fiber filling of void created by removing non-tannables...prevents decay / controls shrinkage)

Rehydrating "Salt-Dried" Skins: (skins that have been double-salted / hung & completely dried out)
- per gallon COLD water
- 1/2 fl. oz. Atesan LPW (or Degreaser) ...2 fl. oz per 5 gallon is good
- start rehydration for medium thick skins mid-afternoon (rehydrate overnight ...keep submerged)
- skins should be rehydrated by next morning & ready for the pickle
- Note: start thinner skins as late as possible in the day as they won't take as long
- fur bearers may need just a few hours vs. overnight - start them early in morning
- medium hides such as deer may take up to 24 hours...
- African / thick skins may need 2 full days... (see below)
- BOTTOM LINE: rehydrate them until they are completely pliable / relaxed...
- 16-24 hours for most common skins

If not fully rehydrated after overnight rehydration:
Changing to a new fresh rehydration bath keeps rehydration going "full speed" if skin is
significantly shy of fully rehydrated next morning...this is a consideration for hard-to-relax
skins that may require more than a single overnight rehydration (such as African skins) ...
plus a new soak "reduces rate of bacterial re-activation"
(bacterial risk increases as water temperature warms up above 60 deg F)

ADDIDITONAL REHYDRATION TIPS…
Reduced-Salt Pickle to Finish Rehydration of Salt-Dried Skins:
For close, but not fully relaxed after the rehydration soak - just a little stringent still...
- build pickle to start with only 1/2 lb. salt per gallon (20% on salinometer)
- add rehydrated skins and pickle 6-8 hours
- by end of day, measure salt level of pickle with salinometer & add enough salt to adjust up to 40%

NOTE: YOU MAY NOT GET A SKIN COMPLETELY SOFT IN INITIAL REHYDRATION SOAKS...
GET THEM LOOSENED UP & IN THE PICKLE AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, KNOWING YOU CAN
DO ADDITIONAL HYDRATION SOAKS DURING THE PICKLING PROCESS...
Intermediate Hydration Soak Before Shaving:
For pickled skins that are stubborn to shave due lack of complete rehydration
or "Grease and/or Freezer-Burned" skins, etc:
- drain from pickle
- per gallon WARM water (80-85 deg F)
- 1/4 lb. salt
- 1/2 fl. oz. Atesan LPW (or Degreaser)
- 2 tablespoons baking soda (mix well)
- add drained, pickled skin and soak until relaxed & shaveable (can be up to several hours)
- remove, drain briefly, and shave (then return to pickle)
Note: this soak can be done again on following days if needed (always return to pickle in between)
Tip: you can paint relaxer on full strength over stubborn spots / areas &
use a serrated edge to "rake / soften" after draining from soak

Rehydrating "Wet-Salted" Skins: (salted & drained / not hung & dried / in a damp state)
Note: SALTING & GOING STRAIGHT TO THE PICKLE is the biggest mistake in tanning
- wet-salted skins have "dehydrated fiber" and do need rehydrated / opened up before pickling
- knock off salt & relax in plain, COLD water only until fully relaxed (30 minutes to 1 hour)
- Optional: add 1 fl. oz. Atesan LPW per 5 gallon as a soap agent for cleaning
- if salting 48 hours, it may require up to 2 hours to relax completely
- rinse in cold water, drain briefly, and proceed to pickle
Note: the most common mistake in tanning is knocking salt off wet-salted skins and
putting them straight into the pickle without rehydrating them (or rinsing at best)

Rehydrating "Air-Dried" Furs: (not “salt-dried”)
- per gallon cool water (not to exceed 60 deg F)
- 1/4 lb. salt (helps to solubilize the glued / cemented proteins)
- 1/2 fl. oz. Atesan LPW (or Degreaser)
- mix and adjust pH down to 4.5-5.0 (no lower than 4.5...use dribbles of acid)
- rehydrate fully & proceed to pickle

Hard-to-Relax Salt-Dried Skins: "WEAK PICKLE" REHYDRATION FORMULA
(African Skins / Thick Hides, etc.)
Note: we use a minimal amount of salt in this formula because
we are using acid to assist in rehydration. The acid not only
helps pull water in but the lower pH slows bacterial reactivation.
- per 5 gallon COLD water
- 1 cup salt
- 2 fl. oz. Atesan LPW (or Degreaser)
- adjust pH down to 4.5-5.0 (no lower than 4.5...use dribbles of acid)
- soak until relaxed (proceed to pickle)
Raw / Green Freezer-Burned Skins: using "WEAK PICKLE FORMULA" to soften
FYI: this formula can also be used for any raw skin that is hard to
rough flesh / split & turn...including mammal / fish / bird.
Note: I would recommend a "BRINE-CURE" afterwards for salting prior to pickling
(1 quart salt / gallon COLD water...soak overnight...relax in cold water & proceed to pickle)

Washing Odorous and/or Blood-Stained Skins:
(after rehydration of salt-dried skins and before pickling)
- per 5 gallon WARM water (not to exceed 80 deg F)
- 1 cup salt
- 2 fl. oz. Atesan LPW (or Degreaser)
- optional for odorous skins: 1/2 cup Deodorizer Concentrate
- wash well for 15 minutes
- rinse & proceed to pickle
Short-Cut for Deodorizing Odorous Skins:
- split & turn / salt heavily overnight minimum (2 days recommended)
- knock salt off
- wash in Deodorizing Wash Formula above until fully relaxed
- rinse & proceed to pickle

Lukewarm water helps in the heavy-duty stripping of sheep wool's waterproofing lanolin
and odorous molecules caused by glandular secretions in goats / antelope, urine in elk, etc..
Washing in cold water does not work as well as warmer water for stripping odors.

Pickling: (adjusts pH of skin to accept tan)
- per gallon cool water
- 1 lb. salt (40-43% salinometer)
- 1/2 fl. oz. LiquaSafe Acid
- 1/2 fl. oz. Degreaser (greasy skins: 1 fl. oz. / gallon)
- pickle 3 days minimum & shave
- degrease greasy and/or odorous skins after shaving
- re-pickle after shaving (return to original pickle minimum overnight...longer is better)
Note:
- agitate frequently first 2 hours, then periodically for 3 days minimum
- keep submerged overnights (float skin-down / hair-up)
- use enough water for loose folds / free-float (4-5 gallon for avg. deer cape)
- check pH twice per day for first 3 days, and morning after shaving
- pH not to exceed mid-1 range for extended time...it can be lower, just not higher
- skins can be stored in pickle (agitate 1-2 times per week)
- if storing keep lid on so water doesn't evaporate
- we do not recommend re-using pickles beyond twice
- TO DISCARD PICKLE SOLUTION: ADD/MIX BAKING SODA UNTIL PH 7.0

CITRIC ACID PICKLE :
- 3 oz. Citric Acid by weight per gallon water 
- 1 lb. salt per gallon water
- maintain pH of 1.8-2.0 (it won't go lower)
- LiquaSafe Acid pickle needs to be mid-1 range (add acid if pH gets close to 2.0)

Degreasing: Degreaser use in pickle is recommended but optional for all skins...
- non-greasy skins: 2 fl. oz. Degreaser / 5 gallon pickle
- greasy skins: 1 fl. oz. Degreaser / gallon pickle
- degreaser in the pickle is optional and adds supplemental degreasing, but...
For "GREASY AND/OR ODOROOUS SKINS" - a separate WARM WATER DEGREASING is required...
GREASY SKINS: after shaving, perform a warm water "Primary Degreasing"...
- bear, boar, raccoon, beaver, bobcats, coyotes, etc.
- also degrease ODOROUS SKINS such as goats, sheep, elk, etc.
Degreasing Formula for Greasy and/or Odorous Skins:
- per gallon WARM water (80-85 deg F)
- 1/4 lb. salt (2 cups per 5 gallon)
- 1 fl. oz. Degreaser (1/2 cup per 5 gal. is good)
- 1 tablespoon baking soda (helps relax acidic skin for better penetration)
- Odorous skins: 1 fl. oz. Deodorizer (1/2 cup per 5 gal. is good)
- agitate 1 hour (thin skins / fine furs: 30 min.)
- remove, drain only & return to pickle
- using a cooler w/ a lid will help maintain water temperature
- NOTE: 1/2 lb. salt + 1 fl. oz. Degreaser per gallon is good enough for degreasing...
- (1/4 lb. salt + 1 tbsp. baking soda / gallon as listed relaxes the skin for better degreaser penetration)
Note: very greasy skins such as brown bear, or "grease-burned skins" can be degreased
up to 4 hours in a degreasing soak...and/or they can be degreased more than once
(on consecutive days / not on same day...just return to pickle overnight after degreasing)
Optional: you can use a "cold-water" degreasing soak and soak overnight for
problematic skins...this will not only degrease, but will help relax stubborn areas
(make sure the skin is well pickled prior to and always return to pickle after degreasing)
Note: Tanneries generally do not use degreaser in the pickle, so they can re-use pickles...
they do a warm water degreasing only.
________________________________________________________
COMMERCIAL TANNERY "DRY-TANS" REHYDRATION FORMULA:
- per 5 gallon LUKEWARM water
- 2 cups salt (1/4 lb / gallon)
- put head / hooves / paws / etc. in first
- add body skin after head, etc. 50% rehydrated
- (Note: for rugs, option to swab the solution on body skin until water puddles)
- soak 75-80% rehydrated
- remove / drain briefly (until water stops running...but leave wet)
- roll / fold up hair-side out
- bag & sweat overnight at room temperature
- if next morning skin is still not quite ready to prep (ear cartilage, etc.)...
- place bagged skin in refrigerator & leave sweat until it is

(Mounts by Tim Gorenchan)
This is a soak solution process that provides actual "tanning of the skin".
For birds, it provides for toughening of fragile skins and controlled drying...and,
skins do not dry out as fast in the mounting process, as with borax preserved only skins.
Fish skins will dry with lighter more paintable tones.

Birds: (3-gallon solutions for turkeys / geese...1-gallon for duck-size)
- skin & wire-wheel / flesh clean
- wash (1 fl. oz. DEGREASER / gallon warm water...rinse & proceed to pickle)
- pickle
- degrease
- tan

Citric Acid Pickle Formula:
- per gallon water
- 1 lb. salt (1 1/2 cups by volume)
- 3 oz. CITRIC ACID (maintain pH 1.8-2.0 w/ Citric Acid pickle)
- 1 fl. oz. DEGREASER
- agitate periodically
- pickle overnight duck-size and smaller... 1 day minimum for larger birds
- (Note: Ostrich - pickle 3 days minimum)

Degreasing Bath: (after pickling & before tanning solution)
(ducks: 1-gallon...turkeys / geese: 3-gallons)
- per gallon WARM water (80-85 deg F)
- 1 cup salt
- 1 fl. oz. DEGREASER
- soak 30 minutes (remove, drain briefly only & proceed to tanning solution)

Bird Tanning Solution: (leave SKIN-INSIDE-OUT @ room temperature)
(ducks: 1-gallon...turkeys / geese: 3-gallons)
- per gallon of water
- 1 cup salt (mix well)
- 2 fl. oz. BIRD & FISH TAN CONCENTRATE (mix well)
- agitate periodically - tan overnight minimum (can leave in tan)
- remove skin...rinse & drain (skin may be frozen at this time)
- to mount, wash & rinse per preference – blow dry or tumble
- DO NOT SOAK IN SOLVENT FUEL (you can briefly dunk to displace water after washing / rinsing)

Ostrich Tan Solution: per every 5 lbs drained, pickled skin
- 3 gallon water
- 3 cups salt
- 1 cup BIRD & FISH TAN CONCENTRATE

(Mount by WORLD CHAMPION Tim Gorenchan)
Fish: (pickling is not used with fish formula)
- skin / flesh clean
Degrease:
-1 fl. oz. DEGREASER / gallon warm water (not to exceed 80 deg F)
- bass: soak 15-20 minutes
- for greasier skins such as salmon: add 1 cup salt per gallon water & degrease overnight
- rinse in warm water & proceed to tan
Fish Tanning Solution: (mix all ingredients well)
- per gallon water
- 1 cup salt
- 1 fl. oz. BIRD & FISH TAN CONCENTRATE
- 1 fl. oz. DEGREASER
- Note: 1 gallon solution mix is good for 2 average 5-6 lb. bass-size fish skins
- soak 1 hour minimum @ room temperature - ready to mount
- or leave in solution (store in refrigerator)
- remove, rinse well - ready to mount (or bag & freeze)
- if skins are dehydrated after thawing from freezer, simply relax in lukewarm water

TANNING INSTRUCTIONS FOR REPTILES: Alligators, Turtles, Lizards, Snakes

Alligators / Large Reptiles:
- flesh & salt heavily for 24 hours...
- knock salt off & re-salt heavily for 24 additional hours
- rehydrate in plain COLD water until fully relaxed
- proceed to pickle
Small Scaleless Snakes / Lizards, etc.:
- flesh & salt overnight
- rehydrate in plain cold water & proceed to pickle

Citric Acid Pickle Formula:
- per gallon water
- 1 lb. salt
- 3 oz. CITRIC ACID (maintain pH 1.8-2.0 w/ Citric Acid pickle)
- 1 fl. oz. DEGREASER
- pickle 1-3 days (thicker skins: 3 days...thin / small skins: overnight)
- (Note: 4-5 days pickling may be needed for larger alligators)
- fine flesh / shave
- degrease (see below)
- proceed to tan

Degreasing Bath Formula:
- per gallon WARM water (80-85 deg F)
- 1 cup salt
- 1 fl. oz. DEGREASER
- soak 30 minutes to 1 hour for thicker skins

Brush On Tanning Option: (for small reptiles, scaleless snakes, lizards, etc.)
Neutralize pickled skin before applying BRUSH ON TANNING OIL:
- per gallon cool water
- 1/2 cup salt
- 2 tablespoons baking soda
- soak 10-15 minutes...remove, rinse, press dry w/ paper towel
- apply BRUSH ON TANNING OIL (fold skin-to-skin)
- leave at room temp. to end of day...bag & refrigerate
- wipe off excess oil prior to mounting

Submersible Tan Option: (for small reptiles, scaleless snakes, lizards, etc.)
Note: see Submersible Tan for Alligators / Large Reptiles below
- per quart cool water
- 2 oz. salt by weight
- 1 tablespoon measure LEATHER TANNING CONCENTRATE
- remove from pickle, add to tan solution (soak overnight)
- to finish, add 2 teaspoon measures baking soda to tan solution (soak 15 minutes)
- remove, rinse...press dry w/ paper towel & apply LEATHER FINISHING OIL
- fold skin-to-skin & leave at room temp. to end of day...bag & refrigerate
- wipe off excess oil prior to mounting

Rattlesnake / Copperhead Tanning
NO PRE-PICKLE REQUIRED
- skin & flesh clean...
TANNING SOLUTION:
- 1 gallon cool water
- 1 cup salt
- 2 fl. oz. LEATHER TANNING CONCENTRATE
- 1 fl. oz. DEGREASER
- add skin to solution & soak 1 hour minimum
- remove, rinse & press-dry w/ paper towel
- oil w/ BRUSH-ON TANNING OIL (fold skin-to-skin...leave @ room temp. to end of day)
- ready to mount or bag & refrigerate (wipe off excess oil prior to mounting)
Decorative Skins: tack out first, then apply oil...let skin dry

Submersible Tanning: (for alligators & large reptiles)
- drain skins briefly from pickle, weigh & go straight to Tan Solution
- DO NOT PRE-NEUTRALIZE
- round weight up or down to get 5 lb increments (i.e. 18 to 20, etc.)
Volume Submersible Tan Bath Formula for Alligators:
Note: this formula is good for appx. 10 lbs. drained, pickled skin...
simply double the amounts for 20 lbs., and so on...
- per 5 gallon water
- 2 1/2 lb. salt
- 8 fl. oz. LEATHER TANNING CONCENTRATE
- tan 24-48 hours...agitate periodically
- remove skin, mix 1/2 cup baking soda into tan bath (mix well)
- re-add skin & agitate periodically 1 hour
- remove, rinse, drain
- apply warmed LEATHER FINISHING OIL...or
- (Note: it is alright to use the BRUSH ON TANNING OIL as well for oiling)
- fold skin-to-skin...cover w/ plastic & sweat overnight @ room temp.
- to mount, simply rinse briefly in lukewarm water & drain

Note: for "decorative / flat skin alligator displays" (body skin only / no head attached)
double the amount of Leather Tanning Concentrate in the above formula...
- sweat in first coat of finishing oil overnight
- then tack out skin
- apply another coat of warmed finishing oil...let dry
- the hide will dry stiff, but will be functional as a decorative display
- once dry, you can wipe clean any excess oil with a sponge and warm water