PRO-1 Hide Paste Features
Hide Paste Gallon & 5 Gallon

  1. Extended work / open-container time…slower skin-over time – optimal for life-size / big game production.
  2. 100% lock down…dried hide will pull foam before it gives.
  3. No more crazy gluing or pinning lips on “open-mouth mounts” – glue up the lip, tool in place – will hold w/out moving until time to finish – GUARANTEED…
    even the inner upper lip that lays “vertical” toward the palate. From bear to lions to bugling elk – as long as the skin lays in place, there will be no carding
    required…including hocks, etc.…literally “sucks down details” as the mount dries – facial details will “pop” by Day 3…
  4. Reproduction parts / cast lip systems: “rough up / scratch” shelf around edge of cast…. lube skin w/ glue – press into place (no crazy glue required).

    Note: make a “scratch tool” using a tile cutter bit (dremel tool accessory bit) …
    excellent for cast lips, manikin tear ducts / nasal cavities / lip lines, ear liners, etc….
  5. Pedestal mounts – can be trimmed flush to the edge (no pinning required).
  6. Fish – excellent adhesion…seam to seam (paper towel dab-dry skin first so no excess moisture).
  7. GLUE-CLAY-GLUE-SKIN TECHNIQUE
    Horn / pedicle bases: apply thin layer of glue to the bone, then critter clay (glues the clay to the bone so the clay doesn’t pull as the “glued skin dries”)…
    even let some of the glue ooze up onto the horn / antler & wipe up & off w/ a wet rag – competition tight – SAVES TIME!
    Commercial Eyes: apply thin layer glue to prepped foam for the clay (so it doesn’t hydroplane, but grabs), then glue for the skin, position skin in place.
    Competition Eyes: “pre-building eyes for competition mounts” – apply thin layer glue to prepped foam, pre-build with “critter clay” & seal with glue…
    let dry minimum overnight…ready to mount…you can pull the cape over without disturbing the clay, yet once on, the dampness of the cape, along with
    fresh hide paste will soften the clay slightly on the surface…everything will seat in, yet maintain enough firmness to minimize shrinkage…
    and pre-building permits a microfine feather blend of the clay to the foam, not possible when adding apoxie or even clay from the outside thru the
    eye opening once the cape is on…also, pre-building enables softer eye creases and a “shelfed” look of the upper swell over the lid.
    (use the lay method – leave just 1/16″ lid to tuck – work in with a t-pin…can leave the caruncle area longer)…

    (notice there’s no change from the build, to the mount, to the dried mount…softer eyes, optimal shrinkage control)
    Ear butts: apply thin layer glue to prepped foam & ear liner, build ear butts with critter clay, seal clay with glue – let dry overnight…
    puzzle cut with scalpel next morning…remove & apply thin layer glue to exposed inner clay from cut…let dry – ready to mount.
    Note: using the GLUE-CLAY-GLUE-SKIN technique for eyes and ear butts permits “tweak ability” in a dried mount, which is advantageous for
    competition applications – if needed, simply rehydrate the clay by laying a wet rag over to soften…
    if Apoxie Sculpt is used, there is no revision –
    what’s done is done (not counting the rush to “outrun the kick of the apoxie” when building ear butts….and any leather-side imperfections
    around eyes will seat softest in a clay bed).
  8. Applicable for all ear liners – no more drumming…dries translucent white…tintable (add red flocking)…
    simply paper towel dry excess moisture from ear skin & apply moderately to liner w/ no excess.
    Tip: no need to sew holes – the glue will hold any tear…for split ears, go ahead and open the split completely, and glue in the whole ear liner…
    after mount dries, use a scalpel to cut out the exposed liner in the split – done.
  9. Thick, heavy base, yet smooth & creamy…one-part adhesive – apply w/ brush or gloved hand – dries like hard rubber…
    can literally bend in two w/out breaking (no brittleness – FLEXIBLE).
    Note: thin by stirring for brush application…briefly stirring makes the product creamier / thinner…
    to make injectable, liquefy by mixing with a spiral 2-blade paint mixer in a power drill.
  10. Extremely greasy under the skin – slip & slide taxi…can move even the next day.
  11. Concentrated adhesive / contains no fillers.
  12. Brushes out of fur / hair with minimal effort…water clean-up.

Bonus:

  • For unruly hair patterns, dab some glue on palm of your hand & spritz some water on it, mix & apply as “hair gel”…
    short-haired leg seams, neck seams, repairs, etc. – brushes out w/ wire brush on finish – not a hair gel in existence that compares.
  • For habitat – dirt / rocks /shale, etc. – mix 1 quart of latex brown house paint w/ 3 quarts of glue – apply this brown glue mix over
    your base & apply habitat…excellent vertical hold on foam rock panels (significant value over Dextrin, etc.).