PRO-1 Hide Paste Features

  1. Extended work / open-container time…slower skin-over time…
    optimal for life-size / big game production.
  2. 100% lock down…dried hide will pull foam before it gives.
  3. No more crazy gluing or pinning lips on “open-mouth mounts” …
    glue up the lip, tool in place…
    will hold w/out moving until time to finish – GUARANTEED…
    even the inner upper lip that lays “vertical” toward the palate.
    From bear to lions to bugling elk – as long as the skin lays in place,
    there will be no carding required…including hocks, etc.…
    literally “sucks down details” as the mount dries…
    facial details will “pop” by Day 3…

  4. Reproduction parts / cast lip systems: “rough up / scratch” shelf around edge of cast….
    lube skin w/ glue – press into place (no crazy glue required).

    Note: make a “scratch tool” using a tile cutter bit (dremel tool accessory bit) …
    excellent for cast lips, manikin tear ducts / nasal cavities / lip lines, ear liners, etc….
  5. Pedestal mounts – can be trimmed flush to the edge (no pinning required).
  6. Fish – excellent adhesion…seam to seam
    (paper towel dab-dry skin first so no excess moisture).
  7. GLUE-CLAY-GLUE-SKIN TECHNIQUE
    Horn / pedicle bases: apply thin layer of glue to the bone, then critter clay
    (glues the clay to the bone so the clay doesn’t pull as the “glued skin dries”) …
    even let some of the glue ooze up onto the horn / antler & wipe up & off
    w/ a wet rag…competition tight – SAVES TIME!
    Commercial Eyes: apply thin layer glue to prepped foam for the clay
    (so it doesn’t hydroplane, but grabs), then glue for the skin, position skin in place
    Competition Eyes: “pre-building eyes for competition mounts”…
    apply thin layer glue to prepped foam, pre-build with “critter clay” & seal with glue…
    let dry minimum overnight…ready to mount…you can pull the cape over without
    disturbing the clay, yet once on, the dampness of the cape, along with fresh hide
    paste will soften the clay slightly on the surface…everything will seat in, yet maintain
    enough firmness to minimize shrinkage…and pre-building permits a microfine feather
    blend of the clay to the foam, not possible when adding apoxie or even clay from the
    outside thru the eye opening once the cape is on…also, pre-building enables softer
    eye creases and a “shelfed” look of the upper swell over the lid
    Tip: use the lay method – leave just 1/16″ lid to tuck…
    work in with a t-pin…leave the caruncle area longer…

    Notice there’s no change from the build, to the mount, to the dried mount…
    softer eyes, optimal shrinkage control!
    Ear butts: apply thin layer glue to prepped foam & ear liner, build ear butts w/
    critter clay, seal clay with glue – let dry overnight…puzzle cut w/ scalpel next morning…
    remove & apply thin layer glue to exposed inner clay…let dry – ready to mount!
    Note: using the GLUE-CLAY-GLUE-SKIN technique for eyes and ear butts permits
    “tweak ability” in a dried mount, which is advantageous for competition applications…
    if needed, simply rehydrate the clay by laying a wet rag over to soften…
    if Apoxie Sculpt is used, there is no revision – what’s done is done…
    not counting the rush to “outrun the kick of the apoxie” when building ear butts….
    and any leather-side imperfections around eyes will seat softest in a clay bed
  8. Applicable for all ear liners – no more drumming…dries translucent white…
    tintable (add red flocking) … simply paper towel dry excess moisture from
    ear skin & apply moderately to liner w/ no excess
    Tip: no need to sew holes – the glue will hold any tear…for split ears, go ahead
    and open the split completely, and glue in the whole ear liner…
    after mount dries, use a scalpel to cut out the exposed liner in the split – DONE!
  9. Thick, heavy base, yet smooth & creamy…one-part adhesive…
    apply w/ brush or gloved hand – dries like hard rubber…
    can literally bend in two w/out breaking (no brittleness – FLEXIBLE)
    Note: thin by stirring for brush application…
    briefly stirring makes the glue creamier / thinner…
    to make injectable, liquefy by mixing with a spiral
    2-blade paint mixer in a power drill.
  10. Extremely greasy under the skin – slip & slide taxi…can move even the next day
  11. Concentrated adhesive / contains no fillers
  12. Brushes out of fur / hair with minimal effort…water clean-up

Bonus:

  • For unruly hair patterns, dab some glue on palm of your hand & spritz some water
    on it, mix & apply as “hair gel” – short-haired leg seams, neck seams, repairs, etc….
    brushes out w/ wire brush on finish… not a hair gel in existence that compares
  • For habitat – dirt / rocks /shale, etc. – mix 1 quart of latex brown house paint
    w/ 3 quarts of glue – apply this brown glue mix over your base & apply habitat…
    excellent vertical hold on foam rock panels (significant value over Dextrin, etc.)